Amateur vs. Roman variations
As with all traditional recipes, I knew I had to make choices. Through my research, I found two main variations of the dish, the one from Amateur and that gives Rome.
Amatrice’s version
The exact origins of the dish are disputed, but it likely began in the town of Amatrice, Italy. There, the white amatriciana (familiarly known as grilled pasta) or pasta with pecorino, black pepperAND jowlsit was common.
Rachel Roddythe article reads: “Amatriciana is [sic] dish invented by shepherds who went up to the mountains during transhumance with their flocks in the Amatrice valley. They had plenty of pecorino; they also brought bacon, dried pasta, wine and a curl of red chili pepper that you so often see hanging in large bunches above doors in Abruzzo.”
Ultimately, the introduction of tomatoes brought a new interpretation to the dish; that version then traveled to Rome, where it took on a slightly different form.
Today in Amatrice you can find both versions, usually paired with spaghetti. Often, a splash of white wine it is added to the crispy meat, probably to balance the richness of the bacon and deglaze the pan. In the warmer months, fresh tomatoes can be used.
The Roman version
In Rome you will often see bucatini or rigatoni rather than spaghetti in northern Lazio. Another difference is the use of onions. You will never see it in Amatrice, but it is a common ingredient in Roman sauces.
Similarities
The biggest discovery? Regardless of origin, all three sources I consulted emphasized the importance of pink sauce. Roddy writes, “Pasta should not be drowned in red, but covered in a thin blanket of pork-studded sauce, enriched with tangy, tangy pecorino.”
Cook Evan Funke of Trattoria Felix in Los Angeles goes so far as to say that salsa should have a 50/50 ratio of fat to tomato sauce.
It’s that combination a little tomato sauce, melted fat and pecorino, when whisked together, it forms an almost creamy, slightly orange coating of umami to the paste.
Looking for more pasta recipes? Try my lobster pasta, pici all’aglione, or egg ravioli.
