The Danube River moves at its rhythm. Large and slow in some places, hurrying in others, he carves out through 10 countries, connecting cities and villages, languages and stories, before emptying himself in the Black Sea. He brings fragments of the past with it: whispers of imperials, of merchants who exchange spices and thirst, of bakers who roll pasta in hot kitchens, their hands sprinkled with flour, dense air with the scent of the mild seed toasted. Along its shores, where the earth is rich and fertile, poppies fields oscillate in the breeze. The seeds, so small but so full of meaning, were collected here for centuries, ground in rich pasta, sweetened with honey, mixed in cakes, bent in pastries. To make a roll of poppy seeds –poppy in Slovakia, poppy in Hungary, poppy seed cake In Poland, and numerous other names and variations throughout central and eastern Europe: it is taking part in something old and immutable, a tradition carried out in flour and sugar, in the careful diffusion of filling, in the close rolling of the dough.
The story of the poppy seed roll is tangled in the past of the region, modeled by changing edges, waves of migration and influence of empires. Some trace its roots for the Ottomans, who have ruled parts of central Europe for more than a century, introducing full pastries that may have inspired subsequent variations. They brought with them Pastry shop—A rolled and full pastry shop made with thin layers of pasta. Over time, the local bakers have transformed the concept, exchanging the shaky pasta with a softer and leaked dough, filling it with the ingredients they knew better. The Austro-Hungarian Empire further spread tradition, while the recipes traveled from noble kitchens to humble farm houses, each region added its own touch.
In the nineteenth century, poppy seed rolls had become firmly incorporated into the culture of cooking of central Europe. They appeared in cooking books and on the holiday tables, in particular at Christmas and Easter, their dark and spiral filled a family show between the winter and spring holidays. The poppy seed, once a staple of ancient diets, took over layers of symbolism: prosperity, fertility, even protection against misfortune.
But while poppy seed rolls have become closely linked to festive traditions, they have never been fully reserved for holidays. Domestic bakers often made them use flour and butter stores, bakers sell them in the markets like every day Indulgence and travelers along the Danube – Saili, traders, scholars who move between cities – thick slices would have slipped into their bags, a filling and home comfort that lasted for days.
Poppy seed rolls do not belong to any single country, but every place along the Danube has made them own. In Slovakia and the Czech Republic, poppy It is often served often in slices, the poppy seed that fills so dark that it seems almost black, the tender and just sweet dough. In Hungary, bejgli It is cooked in long and thin trunks, brushed with a washing of the eggs to create a crackling glaze. In Austria, Mohnstrudel It takes on a free clearer, more strudel of bread, sometimes stormed with apples or a whisper of cinnamon. In Serbia, Borteschi with poppy seeds It is slightly richer, more buttery, designed to be slowly tasted.
And always, poppy seeds bring their quiet meaning. They are symbols of abundance, of renewal, of history itself. The seeds were grown in this region long before it was mapped in the nations, before there were edges to cross. The ancient Greeks and Romans appreciated them for their medicinal properties and medieval monks used them in spiced pasta to fill their fasting bread. The poppies continued to flourish through war and peace, through the empire and independence, nourishing generations of bakers who have modeled them in something more than a simple ingredient.
There is a rhythm in doing it: the patience to wait for the dough to get up; the diffusion of the filler filling, uniform and smooth; The rolling, but not too narrow, then the whirlwind remains intact; The cooking, the guard, waiting for the crust to transform the right shade of brown; The way the perfume fills the house and remains a long time after the oven has been turned off.And then there is eating: a slice, thick or thin cut depending on the preferences; A cup of coffee, dark and strong; A moment of pause, to look outside the river, on earth beyond; A taste of something that has been built and redone for centuries, which will continue to be made as long as the hands knead the dough and poppies fields flourish along the banks of the Danube.
Pamarly seed roll
Dough:
- 1 cup (240 grams) Hot whole milk (110 ° f/43 ° C at 115 ° f/46 ° C)
- ½ cup (100 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar, divided
- 1 table spoon (9 grams) Active dry yeast*
- 3 came cups (469 grams) Flour for all uses, more to dust sprinkle
- 1 table spoon (9 grams) Kosher salt
- ¼ cup (57 grams) not salty butter, melted
- 2 Large egg yolks (37 grams), ambient temperature
Filling:
- 2 cups (280 grams) poppy seeds
- ⅓ cup (32 grams) Almond flour
- ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar
- ¼ cup (60 grams) whole milk
- 1½ spoons (7 grams) Zest Orange
- 2 Large egg whites (60 grams), ambient temperature
Enamel:
- 1 cup (120 grams) Sugar of the pastry chefs
- 1½ spoons (22.5 grams) water
- Gasket: poppy seeds
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For the dough: in a small bowl, beat hot milk together, 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar and yeast. Leave to rest until it is foamy, about 5 minutes.
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In the bowl of a support mixer, mix the flour for all uses, salt and the remaining ½ cup (100 grams) of hand granulated sugar until combined. Add the yeast mixture, melted butter and egg yolks; Using the shovel attack, beat low speed until it is combined. Go to the attack of the dough hook and beat at medium-low speed until a smooth, elastic and slightly sticky dough forms, from 6 to 8 minutes.
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Lightly spray a large bowl with kitchen spray. Put the dough in the bowl, turning to the top of the fat. Cover and leave to increase in a hot and shirt -free place (75 ° f/24 ° C) until it doubled, from 1 to 1 and a half hours.
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Preheat the oven to 325 ° F (170 ° C). Assign a baking tray circled with parchment paper.
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For the filling: in an average bowl, beat poppy seeds and almond flour together.
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In an average saucepan, heat the granulated sugar, the milk and the orange zest over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture begins to cook over low heat. (Do not boil.) Remove from the heat; Mix the poppy seed mixture until it is combined. (The mixture may appear dry or sandy.) Let cool completely. (See note.)
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In the bowl of a support mixer equipped with a whip attack, beat the egg whites at medium speed until rigid peaks are formed, from 3 to 5 minutes. Fold the egg whites in the poppy seed mixture until combined.
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Point the dough. Work surface very lightly dust with flour for all uses; Turn off the dough on the prepared surface and divide in half. Rolla half of the dough in a 12×9 -inch rectangle, with a long side closer to you. Distribute half of the filling (about 1 cup or 285 grams) on the dough, leaving a ¼ inch edge on both short sides and a long side. Starting from a long edge in front of the opposite side, roll the dough into a trunk, pinch and ends to heal. Place the trunk, sew the side downwards, on parchment paper and freely wrap the parchment around the dough, leaving about ¼ inch of space around the upper part and the sides of the trunk. Place on the prepared pan. Repeat with remaining dough and stuffed remaining.
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Cook for 30 minutes. Discard the parchment from about trunks and cook up to golden and an instant reading thermometer inserted in the central registers of at least 88 ° C), 15-20 minutes more. Leave the pan to cool for 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and leave to cool completely on a wire rack.
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For the glaze: in another medium bowl, beat the pastry sugar together and 1½ spoons (22.5 grams). Pour on the loaves. Garnish with poppy seeds, if desired. Leave to rest until the glaze is set, about 15 minutes. Refrigerate in an airtight container for a maximum of 3 days.
Note: The filling can be refrigerated during the night without the egg whites, which are added in passage 7. Let the cold filling arrive at room temperature before adding the low egg whites and then use the filling immediately.
For the tip: The baked non -glazed loaves can be wrapped firmly in a plastic and frozen envelope for a maximum of 3 months. Let them thaw in the refrigerator before icing.
