Broken or whole, slathered with cream cheese or filled with smoked salmon, the bagel is the ring-baked product that rules them all. Brought to the United States by Eastern European immigrants in the early 20th century, the bagel became a beloved staple of the American food scene, launching a thousand schmears, spreads, and power brunches. At its peak in the 1990s, more bagels were bought and eaten than donuts. But now it’s time to heed the siren’s call for the boiled, homemade bagel.
Our two recipes are a hymn to two classics, the simple, widely customizable bagel and the slightly sweet version covered in raisins. We won’t get into an argument about whether these bagels beat your deli favorite or your grandma’s secret recipe. But they offer the ideal cornerstones of a true bagel: a firm, bouncy crumb and a toothy, shiny crust. Follow our steps and tips from our test kitchen experts so you can bring the bagel into your home kitchen.
Basic bagels
Makes 12 bagels
- 7 cups (889 grams) bread flour
- 2 spoons (18 grams) kosher salt
- 1¾ teaspoons (5.25 grams) instant yeast
- 2⅓ cups (560 grams) hot water (49°C/120°F to 54°C/130°F)
- ½ cup (170 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (42 grams) barley malt syrup, divided
- 8 cups (1,920 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water, divided
- 1 large egg white (30 grams)
- Topping: everything bagel seasoning, sesame seeds, poppy seeds, freshly grated Asiago cheese
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In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, whisk together the flour, salt and baking powder by hand. Add 2 ½ cups (560 grams) hot water and 2 tablespoons (42 grams) barley malt syrup and beat on low speed until a shaggy dough forms, about 1 minute. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Beat on low speed until the dough pulls away from the sides and bottom of the bowl, about 8 minutes. (The dough will be elastic but may not feel completely smooth.)
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Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and shape into a smooth ball. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (24°C/75°F) until doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
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Place a large sheet of baking paper in a warm, draft-free place (24°C/75°F); dust the parchment with flour.
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Divide the dough into 12 portions (about 107 grams each). Form each portion into a ball. Place 1 ball in your hand. Using your thumb and forefinger, create a hole in the center of the ball and stretch the hole to about 3 inches wide. Place on prepared parchment. Repeat the operation with the remaining dough. (Once the dough contracts, the hole should be 1 to 1½ inches wide.) Cover and let rise until puffy, 15 to 30 minutes.
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Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Line 2-sheet baking pans with baking paper.
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In a large pot, bring 8 cups (1,920 grams) water and the remaining ½ cup (170 grams) barley malt syrup to a simmer over medium-low heat. (Do not boil.) Carefully drop the bagels, 1 or 2 at a time, into the water. Cook for 10 seconds per side; immediately transfer to prepared pans.
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In a small bowl, whisk together the egg white and the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. Brush dough with egg wash and sprinkle with desired toppings.
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Bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool on pans for 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Chai Raisin Bagel
Makes 12 bagels
- 7 cups (889 grams) bread flour
- ⅔ cup (85 grams) raisins
- 2 spoons (18 grams) kosher salt
- 4 teaspoons (8 grams) chai spice
- 1¾ teaspoons (5.25 grams) instant yeast
- 2⅓ cups (560 grams) hot water (49°C/120°F to 54°C/130°F)
- ½ cup (170 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (42 grams) barley malt syrup, divided
- 8 cups (1,920 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water, divided
- 1 large egg white (30 grams)
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In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, whisk together the flour, raisins, salt, chai spices, and baking powder by hand. Add 2 ½ cups (560 grams) hot water and 2 tablespoons (42 grams) barley malt syrup and beat on low speed until a shaggy dough forms, about 1 minute. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Beat on low speed until the dough pulls away from the sides and bottom of the bowl, about 8 minutes. (The dough will be elastic but may not feel completely smooth.)
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Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and shape into a smooth ball. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (24°C/75°F) until doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
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Place a large sheet of baking paper in a warm, draft-free place (24°C/75°F); dust the parchment with flour.
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Divide the dough into 12 portions (about 114 grams each). Form each portion into a ball. Place 1 ball in your hand. Using your thumb and forefinger, create a hole in the center of the ball and stretch the hole to about 3 inches wide. Place on prepared parchment. Repeat the operation with the remaining dough. (Once the dough contracts, the hole should be 1 to 1½ inches wide.) Cover and let rise until puffy, 15 to 30 minutes.
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Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Line 2-sheet baking pans with baking paper.
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In a large pot, bring 8 cups (1,920 grams) water and the remaining ½ cup (170 grams) barley malt syrup to a simmer over medium-low heat. (Do not boil.) Carefully drop the bagels, 1 or 2 at a time, into the water. Cook for 10 seconds per side; immediately transfer to prepared pans.
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In a small bowl, whisk together the egg white and the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. Brush dough with egg wash.
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Bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool on pans for 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Build a better bagel
From bold Asiago to warming chai spices, these top toppers and mix-ins will help you make the bagel of your dreams.
ASIAGO CHEESE
Asiago is the king of cheeses, nutty and salty, crunchy and creamy, all at the same time. We like to stack it tightly, so much so that we find ourselves saying, “Yes, there’s a bagel under all that cheese.”
Use ¼ cup (28 grams) of shredded cheese for each bagel.
ALL THE BAGEL SEASONING
It’s the addictive condiment that’s officially gone mainstream. But we’re not complaining. Anything containing a mixture of seeds, garlic, onion, and salt is solid gold in our book.
Use 1 tablespoon (9 grams) per bagel.
TOASTED WHITE SESAME SEEDS
These little seeds are a standard bagel topper for a reason. They offer crunch, a light nutty flavor and, when mixed with black sesame seeds, a visual pop.
Use 1 tablespoon (9 grams) per bagel.
BLACK SESAME SEEDS
What is the difference between white and black sesame seeds anyway? Well, white sesame seeds have had their shells removed, while black sesame seeds have had their shells removed. The difference in taste is subtle, with black sesame seeds tasting slightly more bitter. For the best of both worlds, use a blend of the two on your bagel.
Use 1 tablespoon (9 grams) per bagel.
SPICE CHAI
For our sweet(ish) take on the bagel, we used a chai spice blend to bring something new to the cinnamon and raisin formula. You can also use pumpkin spice or your favorite spice mix. Chinese five-spice bagels, anyone?
Use 4 teaspoons (8 grams) per bagel.
POPPY SEEDS
Blue-black poppy seeds are a common ingredient in Jewish baking, so it’s no surprise to find them on the top of a bagel. They add a distinctly earthy flavor and a little crunch to your bagels.
Use 1 tablespoon (9 grams) per bagel.
How to make perfect bagels
A classic bagel is characterized by two things: its iconic ring shape and its distinctive shiny, chewy crust. Here’s how to get both. Step 1: To properly shape the dough, place the dough ball on a lightly floured surface and loosely cover the top of the dough with your hand. Roll out the dough into small circles until it becomes taut, pulling the surface slightly. If the dough starts to tear, stop: you’ve gone too far. The key is a tight ball of dough, because any loose air bubbles will affect the bagel’s characteristic crumb.
Step 2: Using your thumb and forefinger, poke a hole in the center of the dough. Punching on both sides (instead of just poking a hole with your thumb) helps break the seal without tearing the dough.
Step 3: Rotate the bagel in your hands, gently squeezing and widening the hole to about 3 inches wide, being careful not to pull too hard and overwork the dough. This will look and feel like an exaggerated stretch, but the strong gluten structure in the dough will ensure that it will return to a much more conservative 1 to 1½ inches in diameter after a few minutes.
Step 4: Even when you place the stretched bagel on the prepared pan, you’ll notice that it will collapse into a tighter tube. Allow it to inflate for 15-30 minutes, covered loosely with cling film. Covering the bagels while they rise is essential; otherwise they will start to dry out in the open air.
